Sharp points, neo armor or punk culture … Here is an overview of the most important jewels seen on the catwalks of Fashion Week in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
Close the guard
Definitely the strong trend of the season. Faced with the pangs of history and furious climate anxiety, designers respond with jewels designed as ramparts. In view, the metal sheathed hands from the Courreges show, but also the pointed chokers from Acne Studios or Diesel, not to mention the brass knuckles ring from the Valentino show. In short, a tempting counter-offensive.
Figures of speech
Totem of the now essential style in hybrid homes, logomania-style jewels compete this season in creativity. In this game, Chanel seduces with a rock crystal reinterpretation of her Hula Hoop bag, while Valentino offers a graphic and pop interpretation of her characteristic V.
A safe bet that has highlighted every silhouette of the Saint Laurent fashion shows since Anthony Vaccarello took over the leadership of the Parisian fashion house, the spring-summer 2023 jewels have once again set the tone. Above, the same sleeve effect that had already characterized the previous season, with particular attention this time to wearing these bracelets, which are perched on the head, and not below. An ornament that also incorporates the shows of Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens or Off-White.
A visual legacy of the punk culture that raged on the catwalks for autumn-winter 2022-2023, the piercing offers just the right excess this season by taking all the light. Like a jewel for the lips at the Balmain and Messika high jewelery fashion shows, when Balenciaga or Giambattista Valli opt for the face ornament. An illusion, of course.
A deluge of cabochons of different sizes and colors … It’s the nice mix & match offered by Louis Vuitton this season in XXL chokers or earrings. A heritage spirit revisited in the manner of a more contemporary upcycling, which is also found in a more literal key by Giambattista Valli in Paris or Carolina Herrera in New York. A single password, dare the extreme volume that sets the dust on fire.
Spirit of the Madonna
This is the project that is running a lot of ink, even if it hasn’t been completed yet. Scheduled for next year, the biopic about and directed by Madonna (starring Julia Garner in the title role) is already uncovering the essence of her iconic style. And especially her crucifix pendants from the Like a Prayer period, which can be found this season at Blumarine, Gucci or Dolce & Gabbana. A divine jewel necessarily tinged, like all the trends of some seasons, with an aura of the very early 2000s. Half Madonna, half Sarah Michelle Gellar in Cruel intentions therefore.