The show, in a dark room of the ephemeral Grand Palais, began with the screening of a film with Kristen Stewart coming out of a broadcast of the film Last year in Marienbad. It was Gabrielle Chanel who created Delphine Seyrig’s dresses in 1961 for this Alain Resnais film. Ruffled boyish girlish short cut, she wears a black evening dress with a big bow on the chest, then a long silver dress and a tweed minidress …
We revisited these looks during the show for which Kristen Stewart, in black boots and complete with a black and white miniskirt, was among the guests in the front row with the top Naomi Campbell, the American singers Halsey, the Burundian Khadja Nin, the model and Korean-American DJ Soo Joo Park and Charlotte Casiraghi of the princely family of Monaco, Chanel ambassador.
With her androgynous and offbeat look, Kristen Stewart always creates the red carpet event and her looks are dissected by fashion magazines that feature her as one of the best dressed celebrities. “Among the people around me, she is the closest to Gabrielle Chanel, at least from the idea I have of her. She understands Chanel, her clothes. And with her it becomes even more modern.”underlines the artistic director Virginie Viard, in the note of intent of the procession.
The house has made an effort for greater diversity: in addition to the Dutch model Jill Kortleve, star of the shows for several seasons, at least two others are the average size of the French (40-42).
Black and white dominates the catwalk, for a sophisticated look designed by Gabrielle Chanel around the idea of freedom of movement. The Chanel dress, emblem of the brand, comes in all its forms, with skirt, shorts or trousers, decorated with sequins, embroidery or feathers.
Bows, boas, high gloves, ankle boots with rhinestones, scaled jersey, golden dress in crumpled velvet or black slit on the side: all the elements lend themselves to it. “The films we have seen, the ones that own us and also those we make ourselves, Marienbad, the New Wave, the look according to Gabrielle Chanel, Karl (Lagerfeld), the night, the feathers, the sequins, the heels: I like them when things mix “details Virginie Viard.
Few touches of color stand out in this cinematic landscape, like the pale green of a skirt suit paired with a handbag, the pink of a shirt worn under a salmon-beige jumpsuit or the mauve of another suit. A sublime selection of little black dresses closes the show.
Here everything shines, even the socks or stockings we wear with mini outfits, in black or two-tone shoes – always black and white – with a bow strap. Some satin sets consisting of shorts and a top with a bare back evoke negligee. The hairstyles are minimalist and neat, the short squares are smoothed out and the long hair is tied with jeweled bars. On the palate it is dark like a red wine stain.